5th Gen 4Runner Oil Change DIY

Time Needed: Approx. 45 Minutes

This is a write up for changing your oil and oil filter in a 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner. My truck happens to be a 2015 Limited Edition. As always, please proceed at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage you may do to your truck nor am I responsible for any injury that may occur while working on your vehicle.

Warm Up Your Engine

Either give your truck a drive around the block, or if you’re like me, run the engine while you gather your tools and supplies. You want to get your oil warm, NOT HOT, so it will all drain out without too much hassle.

Get Your Tools and Supplies Together

What you will need:
– Oil Drain Pan
– 10mm socket
– 12mm socket
– 14mm socket
– 64mm Oil Filter Housing Tool
– 3/8th inch socket wrench and extension
– Impact Driver if you have one (really speeds up the skid removal)
– 6.6 Quarts of fully synthetic 0W20 oil — I use either Mobil 1 or Castrol
– Oil filter – Toyota PN# 04152-YZZA5 (Yes I used a K&N here, but I normally use OEM)
– Drain plug gasket – Pro tip…don’t buy these online. Just go to the dealer and ask them for a handful. I’ve done so at a few different dealers and they are always free!

I also like to use a big piece of cardboard to lay down in case of any little spills.

Remove Bolts From Filler Plate and Skids

There are four (4) 10mm bolts and one (1) snap bolt (use a flat head screwdriver) to remove from the plastic panel that connects the bumper with the front skid plate. Remove these first, otherwise your engine skid will not come off.

There are four (4) 12mm bolts on the main skid, and two (2) 12mm bolts on the drain cover.
– Remove one (1) of the bolts on the oil drain cover and loosen the other so you can swing the plate out of your way.
– Remove all four (4) of the skid plate bolts. The plate will not drop straight down onto you, it will swing forward. There are 2 tabs that you will have to unhook from the front cross member.

Drain Oil

Now you’re ready to drain your oil! Loosen or remove the oil filler cap in your engine bay to allow for smooth flow of your oil drain.

Setup your oil drain pan underneath the drain panel.

Using your 14mm socket, begin to loosen your drain plug. You will likely get a little dirty on this step when your plug comes free. And if you didn’t heed my warning to ensure your oil is warm, and not hot, this won’t be fun.

Let your oil drain until there is only a drop every few seconds coming out.

When it’s done draining, wipe the surface, take a new drain plug gasket and install your plug again. I don’t know the exact torque setting, but it’s not too tight, I think about 30 lb/ft. I usually go by feel, but I’ve been doing this for years.

Remove and Replace Oil Filter

Depending if you have two drain pans in your garage, you could do this while your oil is draining. I do it in two separate steps.

Toyota decided to use a filter housing instead of a canister like on the 4th Gen. It’s a little more involved, but still very easy.

First, locate the housing. You’ll have to remove the drain cap on the housing so you can remove the excess oil before completely removing the housing for filter replacement. There is no special tool needed, just your 3/8th extension.

After you have removed the cap, use the odd looking nozzle that came in your new filter package to drain off the excess. Push firmly, directly upward until it snaps into place.

Drain until there is a just a drop every few seconds.

Take small o-ring in new filter box and lightly coat with oil. Replace drain cap and tighten to about 10 lb/ft.

Now you are ready to remove your oil filter housing. Using your 64mm tool, loosen the housing. if you drained the housing enough, you should not spill any oil (or at least very little) while removing.

With the housing off, make sure your threads and surfaces are clean. Remove and replace large o-ring. Make sure you coat it with oil so it doesn’t tear when screwing the housing back in.

Remove your filter and replace it with your new one.

Screw the housing back into place — about 18 lb/ft. Be sure the tab on the housing is positioned the same as before you took it off!

Add Your Oil

Now for the good stuff — OIL! I personally recommend using a funnel, but to each their own. If you’re an ace with free hand pouring, go for it!

Per the owner’s manual, the truck takes 6.6qt when changing out the filter too. I usually fill to about 6.5qt, wait a few minutes, check the dip stick and top off as needed.

After you are topped off, check for any drips on your drain plug and filter. Button everything back up in reverse, and hear that engine purr when you start it up!

Reset Your Maintenance Light

Last but not least, reset your maintenance light. It is different between the LE and other models since I have a push button ignition.

For me, in accessory mode, I put the trip on Trip A, turn the truck off, then holding the trip pin in, turn the truck back onto accessory mode. You should then see it reset.

I hope this was helpful for you and if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out!